Watt Gas
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Posted by admin | Posted in Uncategorized | Posted on 25-10-2009
Tags: 10000 watt gas generator, 3000 watt gas generator, 3300 watt gas generator, 5000 watt gas generator, 5500 watt gas generator, gas, generac, generator, portable, powered
Watt Gas

Information about Hydrogen Generators for better gas mileage
So, you've seen posts on your favorite web forum or blog about this hydrogen power thing; you've watched the videos on YouTube; at this point you're curious, but skeptical – great! That's exactly where you should be. But now you've made your way here to More M.P.G. Plus™, and we are going to remove any last bit of doubt. By the time you're done reading, you will know the truth: that you, too, can save hundreds of dollars, by installing our simple HHO Generator kit in your car or truck. People across the globe are discovering the power of hydrogen, and seeing benefits of 10%, 20%, 30%, even 50% increases in fuel efficiency!
RUN YOUR CAR ON WATER? Isn't that just science fiction?
Not any more! By putting a hydrogen generator in your vehicle, you can SAVE hundreds of dollars a year in gasoline! Keep reading to learn how to avoid the next outrageous hike in gas prices...
Join the growing number of people who drive with confidence, knowing that you have the newest hybrid technology available today, while cleaning your engine inside, cutting emissions outside, AN
- When your engine is running, the fuel cell produces hydrogen and oxygen (called HHO, or Brown's gas) "on demand".
- The HHO gas is injected into your vehicle's air intake system, making its way to the cylinders to mix with the air and gasoline vapor already present.
- When the spark plug fires, the HHO ignites along with the fuel, causing the fuel to burn faster – and producing nothing but water vapor in the exhaust!
- By accelerating the fuel-air burn, the hydrogen causes your car to burn the gasoline more completely, increasing your overall fuel efficiency.
- By producing nothing but water vapor in the exhaust, there is no additional risk to the environment.
Q.: Isn't hydrogen dangerous? How can you contain it safely? A.: The Generator only produces Brown's gas on demand, when the engine is running. No hydrogen is actually stored, so there are no safety issues like those involved with the storage of hydrogen under pressure. This is not pure hydrogen but HHO, so provided you install the system properly, use the same precautions around the system you would use around gasoline or any other flammable substance, and properly maintain the system, you should have no problems. Q.: What about conservation of energy? How can you claim to get more energy from the system (in terms of fuel efficiency), when you need to expend energy producing hydrogen? A.: The system doesn't actually generate more energy, or power, than what is put in. But what it does, is increase the efficiency of the system overall. Your engine won't become more powerful - but it will be more fuel-efficient.
Simple math for those who want to know:
- The best internal combustion engine is 18% efficient, 20% on a good day.
- The process of brute force electrolysis today has been pushed to about 85% Faraday. Note: Based on the caloric energy available from burning hydrogen, by using Faraday's "Law" to translate from electrical energy it is estimated that 100% efficient hydrogen electrolysis is achieved by creating somewhere between 5.5-7.5 milliliters of gas per minute per watt of energy consumed. Members of our research group have run the numbers several ways which all seem to point to around 7.0 m/m/w. Many of our cells have operated as high as 6mmw or roughly 85% efficient
- The product of electrolysis is HHO which has it's own energy value, up to 85% of what we put in.
If all we considered was the return of energy value when we inject the HHO as a supplement to gasoline, then yes; Conservation of energy applies.
HOWEVER!
HHO as an additive does more than return 85% of the energy we put in to create it. It's properties enhance the slow burning gasoline, speeding up the rate of combustion, causing much more of the total combustion process to be translated into mechanical energy rather than being lost as waste heat out the tail pipe, raising the efficiency of the total system. Returning to the simple math...
- Let's say we're able to translate just 10% more of the total system energy to mechanical energy. We have still not violated conservation of energy, only raised the total system efficiency to 28%. But that's an increase of 55%!!! Now deduct the energy loss of 15% to create the HHO that made this possible and you still end up with a total net gain of 40%!
This is not rocket science - it's simple math, and it works. The reality is, some are getting even more: up to 35% mechanical efficiency, 94% gain, -15% to create the HHO, 79% total net gain. That's 54 MPG on a car that started out at 30. People are doing this. It is working. The move is on and there is no stopping it.
Questions About HHO Production
Distilled water alone will not conduct electricity sufficiently for electrolysis at automobile voltages, impurities in tap water and other natural sources are responsible for making water conductive. In order to perform electrolysis, we use distilled water to keep our cells clean from contaminants that will eventually dirty up or damage our cell and reduce production, they may also generate unwanted by-products. The use of a suitable catalyst allows our distilled water to conduct electricity.
The following catalysts are more commonly used, please note that this is not a list of the best catalysts, merely those that are generally used. To follow is a discussion on the suitability of each.
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Salt:
This is a bad catalyst to use, it will facilitate a reaction but will produce chlorine gas as a by-product. Salt will also cause damage to your electrodes over time. Chlorine gas can kill you, please avoid using salt or baking soda.
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Baking Soda:
Baking Soda will create carbon monoxide and dioxide gas and damage your electrodes eventually. This stuff can kill you. Please avoid baking soda.
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Potassium Hydroxide:
Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH to use the chemical name, is by far one of the best catalysts for electrolysis. KOH remains neutral in electrolysis in that it is not consumed by the process, in other words, as your electrolyte level goes down all you will need to do is add more distilled water.
Be very careful with Potassium Hydroxide, it will burn if it gets onto your skin. Always keep some vinegar around as a rinsing agent, should you spill any on your skin.
The safest way to use KOH is to collect a small amount of your distilled water in a glass beaker or jar, and then add the KOH to the water. DO NOT do this the other way around and add the water to the KOH! After you have added your KOH to your draw-off of water, pour the water back into the generator. This method will aid the dispersal of the catalyst around your electrolyte.
-
Sodium Hydroxide:
Sodium Hydroxide, or NaOH to use the chemical name, is another decent and popular catalyst, commonly used in Drain Cleaner. Some drain cleaners state 100% Sodium Hydroxide on the container and are suitable to use as a source of this catalyst. You should handle and add the NaOH in the same manner as KOH. NaOH can be more difficult to dissolve, this can be eased by adding it to hot distilled water.
Sodium Hydroxide, like KOH, will not used up by the reaction so will need to be topped off.
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Vinegar:
Distilled White Vinegar may be used as an electrolyte solution on its own, it contains generally about 95% distilled water. In use it will require stronger cell voltages to provide high production and will break down, leaving a residue which must be cleaned out of your cell periodically.
Conclusions
From my own experiences, and those of others, I would recommend using Potassium Hydroxide as your catalyst. It is commonly used in the making of soap and can be obtained from cosmetic suppliers. KOH is also referred to as "Potash".
For Cold Weather
From my own experience and others I would recommend using HEET, in the yellow bottle, adding a small amount to your KOH , water mix and it will not freeze. The alternative that also works is to use -30 degree windshield washer solution. I think the washer solvent is the same thing as you make adding HEET to distilled water. When temperatures here in Minnesota got below -20 degrees I simply left my system turned off. I also covered my radiator to ensure my engine temperature got up to and stayed around 200 degrees. Anything under 190 degrees would drive my MPG down at least 30%.
About the Author
Shop Force 3500 watt gas generator
Comparing the Watts Premier Recirculating Pump to the Chilipepper Hot Water Pump
The Watts Premier Hot Water Recirculating System
According to Watts, the Premier Recirculating system gives you hot water instantly at every faucet. Here's the quote from their website: "Watts Premiers Hot Water Recirculation Pump brings convenience and saving to your home, giving you hot water instantly at every faucet, when you need it."
Technically that’s not really true…
A luke-warm water circulating system
The Watts Premier system is what I like to call a luke-warm water circulating system. The system consists of a valve for placement under the sink, and a pump located at the water heater. The pump creates a pressure difference between the hot water faucet and the cold water faucet.
The valve connects between the hot and cold water faucets, and when the temperature drops to below 98° water flows through the valve bringing hot water towards the sink/faucet/valve installation.
When the valve senses a temperature above 98° the valve closes and water stops flowing. In other words it operates identically to a traditional temperature controlled hot water circulating system, except instead of hot water it circulates warm water, and of course, uses the cold water line as the return line.
Wasting energy
The water may not be hot, but it is much warmer than with no premier system, consequently your water heater will have to consume more energy to keep the water in that big heat exchanger you call your hot and cold water plumbing system warm.
One nice thing about the Watts pump is that you can place a valve under every sink if you wish, and get faster hot water to any or every fixture. However, you will at the same time increase the energy consumption of your system.
Won't work with tankless water heaters
The pump is very small and does not consume much energy, however as a result it can't pump much water either. It's unlikely that the Watts Premier will be able to turn on even a small tankless water heater. According to the pump curves on the Watts website the pump cut-off pressure is about 1.5 psi.
Watts uses a Grundfos UP15-10SU7/TLC pump with a 1/25 horsepower motor which consumes 25 watts. The pump runs continuously, so running it for say 16 hours a day would consume 25 watts/hour x 16 hours/day x 365 days/yr = 146,000 Watt/hours per year in electrical energy consumption. That’s 146 kWh and at say 13 cents per kWh would be $19.00 per year. This would be substantially less than the energy lost due to circulating warm water.
The hot water will of course arrive more quickly than if the pipes were allowed to cool down completely because being colder, they would suck more heat out of the oncoming cold water as it flowed to the faucet. But it certainly can not be called "Instant Hot Water". Maybe "Instant Warm Water".
The listed price for the Watts Premier system on its website is $225.00
The Chilipepper Model CP6000 Demand Hot Water Pump
The Chilipepper CP6000 is a demand type hot water delivery system. It only pumps the water to the fixture when you "demand it" by pressing a button. The Chilipepper pump mounts under the sink, and connects to the hot and cold water supply valves like the Watts valve. A power outlet is needed to plug the pump into.
When the button is pressed the pump begins pumping the water to the fixture returning the cooled off hot water in the hot water pipes back to the water heater through the cold water pipes. When the pump detects hot water arriving it shuts off so hot water does not get into the cold water line.
Faster hot water
The CP6000 pump has a powerful 1/3 horsepower high rpm motor, with a cut-off pressure of about 50 psi. That gives it the ability to pump the water to the fixture more quickly than the hot water would arrive if you just turned on the faucet full-blast.
No wasted energy
Since all it does is fill the hot water pipes between the fixture and the water heater with hot water just as you would do by running the faucet, you don't use any additional energy from the water heater with the system. Since the pump runs for a very brief time, it uses far less electricity than the Watts pump, about $2.00 per year.
Works with any tankless water heater
The powerful motor also means it will work with any tankless water heater on the market...no problem. Since tankless water heaters typically take 10 to 20 seconds longer to get water to the fixtures, the CP6000 is a very nice accessory for any tankless water heater, gas or electric. You get your hot water very quickly with no additional energy penalty and you save a lot of water.
Easier installation
The CP6000 is easier to install since all you need to do is connect up the hoses under the sink. You don't have to shut down the water heater and disconnect the existing plumbing connections, and you don't have to turn off the water supply, or purge the hot water lines of air etc.
The CP6000 retails for $179.99 and comes with a button, a six foot control wire, and two T fittings with adaptors for 1/2" or 3/8" hoses.
The CP6000 can be purchased bundled with a remote control receiver and transmitter for $215.99.
About the Author
Metlund D’mand System compared with Chilipepper CP6000 pump: Metlund D’mand Info
Useful information about water heaters including tankless hot water heaters: Storage Water Heaters Instant hot water systems.
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